Sunday, July 30, 2017

Penghijrahan Rawa awal kurun 19

Team penyelidik kami meneliti tajuk di atas untuk mengenal pasti sumbangan Rawa early settlers di awal 19 ini kpd negara kita. Sebelum pergi ke Rao, kami hanya menganggap, early settlers ni berhijrah sebab perang paderi di Sumatra di kawasan Rao (satu suku bangsa yang tua tetapi sekarang semua disatukan dengan suku-suku sekitar Sumatra Barat itu sebagai Minang. Byk juga buku-buku yang menyebut Minang bila mana yang membuat itu sebenarnya orang Rawa.Buku Farish Noor on sejarah Pahang lagi bagus...habis disebutkannya sebagai orang Melayu walhal real historians tahu peranan orang rawa dalam perang saudara di Pahang tu dan apa orang Bugis buat pun mereka tau).

As I was saying, we thought it was just due to Dutch prosecution.Rupa-rupanya banyak sebab lain mereka berhijrah : bah besar yang menyebabkan 8 tahun kebuluran, penyakit cacar dan perkembangan ekonomi yang pesat di Tanah Melayu (bijih timah di Perak, Selangor, emas di Pahang, etc).

Then timbul persoalan, how did they get here? Which route, which port? Itu pun jawabannya pelbagai. Waktu jajahan Rao sangat luas dan waktu pusat Islam dan perdagangan juga banyak di Acheh, mereka pergi melalui sana..turun di Pulau Pinang ( maka ramai juga masyarakat Rawa di Pulau Pinang. Industri percetakan awal dimulakan oleh orang Rawa..ayah kpd Allahyarham Yusuf Rawa). Dari Pulau Pinang, ramai yang travelled further south ke Perak (Gopeng, dll). Sampai sekarang Gopeng terkenal for its rawa communities. Yang sempat kami temu bual mengatakan nenek moyang mereka ikut Sungai Rokan Kiri (byk emas ketika itu) ke Sungai Asik terus ke Dumai atau Bagan Si Api-Api sebelum crossing over ke pelabuhan di persisiran pantai barat kita.Teluk Mak Intan was a big port for a long time, Melaka, Johor.At its fastest, it would take an hour or two je crossing over.And people go back and forth because of the short distance. Sampai hari ini..a trader in Bukit Tinggi told one of my friends, bila Ramadan..dia datang berjual di bazaar Ramadan.Cukup sebulan balik dgn pendapatan yang lumayan. Kata Nik, mcmana dia dapat lesen niaga? Itu cerita lain la ya. But my point is, orang rajin bekerja dan berikhtiar, kita jgn jeles. Bebudak kita tak mau pulak semangat begitu.Baik mrk melepak, lumba motor bagai.Something I learnt di Rao, rakyatnya ada survival skill yang tinggi dan self sustainable.I dont think they are poor sebab ada sawah sendiri, tobek (kolam ikan) sendiri, bela ayam itik, sayur tanam sendiri.Itu sebab tak ramai maids dtg dari daerah ini.They are well fed and hidup selesa.Cuma nak bayar pendidikan anak-anak and medical services je yg challenging.

Next: raja dan datuak rao




Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Two sides of a story

We heard many versions of the raos, history, culture and Islamic movement which later became a war..Gerakan Paderi then Perang Paderi.Basically para ulema melawan Belanda but said to be a war between Islamic reformists (kaum padri..nothing to do with paderi priest) and yg sokong adat.

Selepas berjumpa dan berdiskusi with beberapa sarjana tempatan both in Rao and Padang, pelbagai pendapat tentang perang paderi itu.Ada yg cakap isu sebenar was to protect local business interest from imperialist Belanda jadi ia bukan perang agama semata-mata. Yang nyata, ramai orang Rawa waktu itu pindah ke Tanah Melayu semasa dan selepas perang termasuk moyet saya. Persoalan yang timbul..jika berundur waktu perang, apakah mereka berundur kerana kalah dan ingin menyelamatkan agama dan membina balik kekuatan sebelum lawan balik (mcm Rasulullah berundur ke Madinah dari Makkah) atau mereka berundur sebab tidak mahu membunuh sesama Islam (kaum Rawa juga..ramai ahli keluarga juga yg berpihak kpd Belanda)? Kalau benar jihad, mrk akan sanggup mati syahid, right? I think mereka berundur to elak bunuh sesama sendiri..just like Rawa di Pahang berundur ke Tanjung Malim dan Kalumpang sewaktu Perang Saudara Bendahara Ahmad lawan Mutahir berebut nak jadi Raja sebab there were Rawas on both sides.Ada yang makan dedak.Ada juga yang percaya kepada pejuangan mempertahankan hak.But maybe yg jenis makan dedak lebih ramai.Ada juga tulisan yang kata Rawa ni mcm askar upahan.Di Pahang...di Selangor..di Perak.Alahai. Kenapa Clifford panggil Mat Kilau "adik Mat" ? Maknanya ada masa adik Mat pernah bermesra dgn Clifford yang pandai berzanji, bercakap loghat Pahang tu tapi dalam short stories dia mengata orang Melayu dan orang asli Pahang macam2. Kenapa Pawang Nong was decorated with medal of bravery by the British for fighting against the Japs? Kenapa Pawang Nong tak fight the British? Adik Mat, Pawang Nong semua tokoh dan pahlawan Rawa di Pahang. Mat Kilau kemudian terkenal menentang British kerana tidak setuju dengan penindasan pentadbiran British: isu pungutan cukai dan lain-lain.Milner memberitahu in our meeting in Feb ada pendapat Mat Kilau bukan Rawa tetapi Acheh. Tunggu penjelasan lanjut tentang ini.Milner is partially correct but he's also wrong. :)

Diari perang Imam Bonjol...salah seorang pejuang perang paderi yang terkenal telah dijumpai.Sebelum ni an American scholar got a copy of it but baru-baru ini governor di sumatra called my newly found young scholar friend to inform him he found kitab lama dlm almari di rumahnya.Selepas diteliti oleh Dr. P maka disahkan itu diari Imam Bonjol yg ditulis di dalam jawi tetapi catatan juga dibuat dua orang.Im waiting for my friend's publication on this.Sangat2 interesting.Orang ckp Islamic reformists perang paderi ni wahabi but kata Dr P dari diari itu bukan but I raised my concern over depa dok membakar kampong kalau tak ikut Islam cara mereka.Dr P kata last resort.I pun belum baca diari tu so cannot comment byk.I hope the Indonesian authorities will publish it soon.

Next: adakah betul kita Rawa keturunan raja-raja? Tungguuu.

















Sumatran trip

I got home two days ago. Arrived home pretty exhausted from Padang.It was a hectic 8-day trip starting with Rao-Bukit Tinggi-Padang and home.

Mula-mula sampai Rao, excited sebab suasana kampong dan suasana Islam. Surau banyak and pagi2 when the azan went akan ada orang ngaji, orang bertazkirah, budak2 ngaji pakai microphone.Lagu memang lagu melancholic.Teringat my Sumatran guru ngaji aruah Pak Aji Asmawi. Dia ada cakap pasal sawah, pasal budak2 mengaji merendai-rendai. I experienced those.Nice feeling.

Dr Afi gave me his bro in law to take care of us 4. Door to door service from airport to 7 hours ride ikut jalan mcm pi Cameron Highlands to Rao (biasa 4.5 to 5 hours kalau bawak laju but Reza was careful). Fatin muntah2 macam nak terkeluar isi perut. I ok je sebab mcm jalan Raub lama. Macam balik kampong le. :)

Afi put us at this Wisma Rao and each of us got a room.No aircon here.Kipas pun tak seberapa laju. But nasib toilet dlm bilik. Air sejuk (frm bukit katanya). We met local people..Datuak Amran who showed us around and found what he suspected my waris..lineage Maharaja Datuak Morah so I met his anak2. The position now belongs to someone else.I told them I had returned to claim my rights.Haha.

So I saw kampong moyet I..Tanjung Durian bersebelahan dgn Tanjung Alai. Frozen in time.I loved Tanjung Durian. Bersih dan permai. Ada budak panjat pokok jambu air to give us some.So sweet.

Then Reza took us around the next few days (Haji Ijal did the second day and kita jalan with Datuak Amran.Visited his school.Kena kerumun dgn budak2 darjah satu.So sweet). Pastu kita pi tengok sisa2 Srivijaya.Besoknya Reza bawak naik puncak bukit to show where istana or candi Srivijaya.I makan kat warong atas bukit tu.Lauk Minang.Fresh gila.Dan sedap giler.Dengan bayu bertiup lembut.Open space.Boleh tidur kat pangkin bertikar dia tu.Fuiyoo.

More later.Byk sangat ceritanya.

our homestay


sungai Rokan dulu banyak emas

kampung tua

rumah padi

Tanjung Durian

masjid Tanjung Alai

panjat pokok nak ambik jambu air for us

uniform mereka

melawat sekolah rendah di Rao

gulai asam, masakan tradisi Rao

Duduk di Perak sebelum ww2

Sunday, July 09, 2017

Friendship eid

We have a special name for ourselves. Over the years, we had worked on many community and environment projects together.The group is multidisciplinary and of all age groups.So I thought this raya I celebrate this friendship.A couple of my Rao friends who had helped me with my research were invited too.And the Kloos family who would be going home next month.

We had readings.Jamal Raslan was invited and was forced to perform his spoken words. :)) We had fun listening.But the ASA crowd got excited over Prof Fauzan's piece on huris and life of an academic at iium.That got viralled as well and he rose to fame. :D Dr. Afi read his "Gadis Bertudung Labuh" which addressed discrimination against hijabi women in Indonesia as late as 2009. I had always thought pakai tudung ni started in Indonesia.It started with Anwar Ibrahim bringing back the Islamic Reform in the country in the early 70s.Wow...so forward thinking dia! In 2009, Indonesian authorities said do not bring the Msian disease (Islamisasi dlm bentuk bertudung etc) to Indonesian shore.Double wow.

Maher said nak dtg to recite poems on Yemen before and after the war broke but he didn't turn up.Maybe he got home late frm Penang.Some got stuck in the open houses jam.

Some pics.

comel
ASA



Teaching us Japanese nursery rhymes

with the little Kloos


Rakan pi swimming


pemuisi Rao

Anak Minang

some daddy tertinggal ini

ABC

Sunday, July 02, 2017

Eidul Fitri 2017


Fresh lilies harga durian runtuh

fresh tulips from Holland

malam raya waiting for orang surau
the joy of my raya - orang bertakbir mlm raya

as we age every raya

 Raub

Raub

where kami dikacau hantu gearbox
(the car shook like plane in turbulence and would not
move)
part of Raub from a hilltop


Z with cousins and second cousins on my side
Nik's best friend and his family
Childhood friends and our consultant - to save old buildings
in Raub

Mood raya tak moncol till Z took me to the florist to buy cheap flowers for raya so we got fresh lilies, tulips, hydrangeas, roses, pas tu bunga mcm nenas...wahh..mood raya naik sampai 200%. Terlebih lajak.

Pagi raya, Nik's siblings and families kumpul at our place.We are now the elderlies.Potluck..satay goreng, nasi tomato, nasi impit, lemang..meriahlah juga although we hv lost so many loved ones.Lepas brunch we left for Raub.Hotel Jelai.No where to go.My oldest sister pi beraya at her in laws near Jerantut.Pi my 3rd sister..she tengah tidur sbb penat ramai org in the morning.Sedihnya but my bro in law ada so then my sis woke up and hidang her famous nasi dagang.The rest belum sampai..Sal in Tapah..Ummi in Subang Jaya with her in laws..Eishah with her in laws, Kak Ngah in Dong with her son..So sadlah. Raya dah tak mcm raya if your mom ain't around.

Raya ke dua, suddenly semua ada.Terlajak kuorum.Haha.They said it's the best raya so far.I didn't feel it.I missed mak and Mek.Mek's gone belum setahun.Time mcm ni Mek would crack up so many funny stories dgn wajah selambanya.We went to visit the kubur.Belum buat lagi pusaranya.Maybe by Dec it would be right to pasang the nesan etc.We went looking for saudara mara.Yg tua2 dah meninggal semuanya.So we went looking for cousins and second cousins.Rumah pun dah lupa.But we went visiting Kak Bainun.Then Busu.We shared same grandparents.Gosh...the memories came back..of their mom my aunty..of my mom their aunty.I'm glad to know Busu's children are doing well.Dia polis.But nxt year dah pencen and would be going back to his wife's kampong near Jerantut (Kg Damak).Suddenly every blood tie is important to me.

Raya ke 3 I pulak keluar beraya with my childhood friends in Gali and Dong.Lizan's and Mastura's.Nice time catching up.Liz is with Petronas  and Mas makes herself a huge home not far from Lata Jarum.We plan to meet up again next raya..potlucking by the river.Haha.

Mek's twins and her two cucus (Fateh has a sister now) came back on Raya 4. The little one is so cute.Hilang rindu dapat jumpa Fateh.Mek loved him so much.

Because there was not much to do, we went up two hills to view Raub from the hilltop.Found out two hills had been bought over and developers bermaharajalela cutting hills and trees to build overpriced homes for Sporean Chinese/ mainland Chinese..kata orang le.Harga mcm kat KL..Rm800k - RM1 million.

You think we are keeping quiet about this?